Why the future of restaurants runs through the grocery store
29 May 2023
It’s Friday night and, judging from the dejected slump of a quartet of would-be diners outside of the legendary Una Pizza Napoletana on the Lower East Side, there are no tables to be had. Around the corner, a similar scene plays out at Nom Wah, the century-old dim sum restaurant on the bend of a crooked street in Chinatown. A few blocks north, at the Momofuku Noodle Bar, the hungry gaze at the eating through a plate glass window. Everything everywhere is booked all at once.